Thursday, June 5, 2025

Popes’ contributions to Art and Architecture in Rome

Popes have been in the news lately with the death of Pope Francis and the election of Pope Leo XIV. The contributions of the popes to Rome’s art and architecture extend from the early Christian period to the Renaissance, Baroque, and even modern eras. As you walk through Rome now, you will encounter mostly Renaissance and Baroque examples, but beneath the new façades are frequently ancient beginnings. 

Perhaps the oldest to be begun by a pope was Santa Maria in Trastevere. The first sanctuary was built in 221 and 227 on land donated by Pope Callixtus I.

Santa Maria in Trastevere

The Renaissance popes, particularly from the late 15th to early 16th centuries, were instrumental in the revival of classical forms in art and architecture, marking a break from medieval styles.

Pope Nicholas V (1447-1455) is often considered the first of the "Renaissance" popes. He commissioned major rebuilding projects in Rome, including the restoration of the Roman aqueducts and the founding of the Vatican Library.

 


Capella Sistina
Around 1475 Pope Sixtus IV (1471-1484) had the chapel which bears his name, the Sistine Chapel, built in the Vatican. This is the location where the Conclave of Cardinals meets after a pope dies to elect his successor. He donated many sculptures from the classical period which formed the first public art collection, now known as the Palazzo dei Conservatori, on the Campidoglio hill. He had the Santa Maria del Popolo church rebuilt and in 1475 on the occasion of the Jubilee, had a bridge built to facilitate moving pilgrims from the left bank where most of the city was, including the seven hills, to the Vatican on the right bank. It is of course named Ponte Sisto.

 

Ponte Sisto

In 1506 an ancient statue, the Laocoön, was discovered in a vineyard on the Oppio Hill in Rome. This, together with another ancient statue, the Belvedere Apollo, formed the basis of the Vatican collection begun by Pope Julius II (1503 -1513). Over the succeeding years hundreds of sculptures and paintings were added. Pope Julius II was one of the most significant patrons of art during the Renaissance. He commissioned Michelangelo to paint the Sistine Chapel ceiling (1508–1512), one of the most famous works in Western art, and oversaw the construction of the new St. Peter's Basilica, commissioning works from architects like Donato Bramante, Michelangelo, and Carlo Maderno. Also in the Vatican, he had Raffaello decorate the walls of his apartments with frescoes, now known as the Stanze di Raffaello. After Julius’ death, Pope Leo X (1513-1521) continued his support for Raffaello’s work.

Stanze di Raffaello

Pope Urban VIII (1623-1644) is responsible for a significant quantity of Baroque art and architecture. He commissioned many works by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, such as the famous Baldacchino (canopy) above St. Peter's altar and the Piazza San Pietro (St. Peter's Square). Bernini also designed the dramatic Cathedra Petri (the Throne of St. Peter) in St. Peter's Basilica and the monumental tomb of Urban VIII , also inside St. Peter’s.

Bernini's colonnade at St. Peter's

The Bernini’s iconic colonnade that embraces visitors in St, Peter’s square is one of the most emblematic features of Baroque architecture. And was realized during the reign of Pope Alexander VII (1655-1667).

Pope Innocent X (1644-1655) continued support for the arts, including Bernini’s Fountain of the four Rivers in Piazza Navona.  He and other popes of that period were major patrons of the many Baroque church façades that define Rome’s skyline. These include Francesco Borromini’s work on Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza and San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane.

Interior of Borromini's San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane

Patronage of Artists: Over the centuries, popes commissioned countless works of art, contributing to the creation of masterpieces in painting, sculpture, and architecture. Artists such as Michelangelo, Raphael, Bernini, and Caravaggio received papal commissions that shaped the trajectory of European art. Their support of artists, architects, and builders helped create some of the most iconic buildings and works of art in Western history, from the early Christian basilicas to Renaissance masterpieces and Baroque grandeur. Their influence not only shaped the city of Rome but also had a profound impact on the development of Western art and architecture as a whole.


Wednesday, December 18, 2024

Tipping in Italy

 In Italy, and much of Europe, tipping has been historically modest or even nonexistent.

The service industry workers generally receive fair wages, and a tip is seen as a gesture of appreciation rather than an obligation. In most cases, tipping remains optional, with the amount left entirely up to the customer.

With more tourists visiting Italy each year and Italian hospitality increasingly blending with international practices, leaving a tip is now becoming more familiar in major Italian cities, particularly in popular tourist areas.  However sometimes it can get confusing, especially in the restaurants.

1. Restaurants

  • ·       A coperto in the bill, or cover charge, is common. This charge, typically around 2-3 , covers the setup at the table, including the tablecloth, napkins, bread, and other basic services.
  •  Tipping Some restaurants also include a servizio (service charge) in the bill of 10-15%, particularly in high-end dining spots, which generally means that additional tipping is not expected.  So, if there is no service charge and you like the outing, a tip would express your appreciation.
  • ·Cash tips: It’s customary to leave the tip in cash, even if you pay the bill by card, since there is no line for a tip on the credit card slip.

 

2. Bars/Cafes

  • Coffee or drinks: Tipping is not typically expected in casual settings, like a coffee bar or a quick espresso. However, if you're sitting at a table or having a meal, leaving small change (around €1 or 2) is appreciated.
  • Barista tips: At a café, many customers leave the change or a few coins on the counter as a tip, but it's not mandatory. The only case in which the tip is sometimes given in advance: ten or twenty cents are placed on the counter, in plain sight for the person preparing the coffee or cappuccino. In this case the function is preventive, to encourage the preparation of the best possible drink.

3. Hotels

  • Bellhops/Porters: For bellhops or porters, a tip of €1-€2 per bag is appreciated.
  • Housekeeping: Tipping housekeepers is not common but can be done for exceptional service. A tip of €1-€2 per night is a good amount, left in an envelope or placed on the bed.
  • Concierge: If the concierge provides a special service, such as securing a reservation or helping with tickets, a tip is appreciated.
  • Doormen: If a doorman assists with hailing a taxi or providing other services, you might tip €1-€2.

4.  Taxis

·       It is not mandatory to leave a tip for the taxi driver, but it is common practice to round up the amount of the ride in favor of the taxi driver. For example, if the ride costs 9.50 euros, you can leave 10 euros, as a gesture of courtesy.  For particularly friendly or helpful service (for example, for a very comfortable taxi or a special route), a tip of 1-2 euros is acceptable.

5. Tours and Tourist Guides

·       If you are taking an organized group tour, a tip of 5 -10 is common and appreciated. For private guides or drivers, a tip of 10-20 euros is typical.

6. Parking attendants (Valet)

·       If a valet takes care of parking your car for you, a tip of 1-2 euros is usually sufficient. In some touristy or upscale areas, the tip may be higher (3-5 euros).

7. Hairdressers/Barbers

Tipping hairdressers or barbers is not expected, but if you’re particularly happy with the service, a small tip of is appreciated.

8. Beach Resorts

·      Not typical, but if the staff at a beach resort provides good service (such as bringing drinks or setting up umbrellas or sun loungers), a tip of 1-2 euros for each service received is generally appreciated.

Saturday, August 17, 2024

Under the Trevi Fountain

Another underground wonder in Rome

The Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain) is probably the most famous fountain in Rome.  Its name comes from the “tre vie” (three streets) that intersect here. The films Three Coins in the Fountain and La Dolce Vita have popularized it on an international scale.

Finished on a design in the late Baroque style of the Roman architect Nicola Salvi in 1762, the work is a tribute to water. The composition is dominated by an imposing Neptune on a cart formed by an enormous shell, pulled by two horses. The triton on the left tries to control his agitated horse which symbolizes the stormy ocean, while the one on the right blows through a shell while guiding his horse easily, representing calm waters. The sense of movement and enormity is amplified by the small square that the structure occupies.

The Trevi Fountain
The custom of throwing a coin over your shoulder into the fountain, to assure your return to Rome, is celebrated and photographed at all hours of the day and night by people from all over the world

The visit to the basement of the Trevi Fountain is a less known but at the same time incredibly suggestive tourist route. It is well known that everywhere in Rome you can find ancient domus, aqueducts and archaeological finds. The site under the Trevi Fountain is a prominent example of this and deserves to be visited.

Buildings under the fountain

 The Vicus Caprarius, “the city of water”

The term “City of Water”, used commonly to define the archaeological area of Vicus Caprarius beneath the Trevi Fountain is due to the element that without doubt characterizes the area and the site. It was discovered between 1999 and 2001 during the renovation of the former Trevi Cinema.

Thanks to the excavations carried out together with the superintendence of the archaeological heritage of Rome, a building complex of the imperial age was brought to light, including canals that carried water from the Acqua Virgo to the luxurious domus of the area, in which water still flows from the Lucullan countryside at a depth of 9 meters below the level of the road.

The antiquarium

To frame the archaeological site there is the antiquarium, that is the exhibition of all the finds that have been found over the years during the excavations. There are over 800 coins dating back to between the 4th and 5th centuries AD, as well as everyday objects, including terra-cotta figurines, African pottery, and mosaic tiles. 

Pottery found in the area, with coins

What makes this hidden gem particularly special, however, is the water that runs through it. At Vicus Caprarius, visitors will find pools that still fill with water, thanks to the Aqua Virgo, one of the 11 aqueducts of ancient Rome. This aqueduct is also the one that feeds into the Trevi Fountain, meaning the water you see in Vicus Caprarius will eventually make its way to the fountain for tourists to throw their coins in.

The excavations brought to light an imposing distribution tank, (the castellum aquae) and the water, which filters through the ancient masonry of the Archaeological area, continues to supply the pipes in lead and the pools of a luxurious residence.

The wall structures found, characterized by a brick facing and conserved until a height of about eight meters, are attributed to an insula, a housing block divided into several independent units that were transformed, in the middle of the fourth century, into a stately domus.


 

Tickets for this archaeological site are only four euros (about $4.08 USD). For more information on how to visit, check out the official website. There are numerous companies that provide tours, but you can also go on your own.