Isola Tiberina

  Rome is situated in the fertile western part of the Latium valley, 15 miles from the sea where the Tiber snakes in a big bend. Here in ancient times, the curve provided an ideal place for landing ships. The area near the Isola Tiberina was also the first practical place to cross the Tiber River. In fact, Romulus, according to legend, founded Rome not far from here on the Palatine hill, where you can still see the remains of 3000 year old huts and of the imperial palaces. It seems probable that near here, on the slopes of the Capitoline, Palatine or Aventine hills, the first inhabitants decided to settle. There is archeological evidence of human occupation from at least the tenth century BC These hills had the advantage of a favorable strategic position. From their heights, it was easy to control the surrounding area and were easily defensible in case of attack. At the bend where Isola Tiberina lies was the easiest place to ford the river.

Contrary to what may be expected, Isola Tiberina is not a natural island. It did not exist in antiquity and there is evidence that it was formed originally by the accumulation of ballast from ships anchored at the nearby port. Later, just below the level of the water of the river, solid rock has been found on which Isola Tiberina was built.

The island has been associated with healing and religion from the earliest times. Here in the third century a temple in honor of Aesculapius, the god of medicine was erected. On the same site, the church of San Bartolomeo was later built. Since 1538 the northern section was the site of the hospital Fatebenefratelli (do-good-brothers), still operating today. If you observe it carefully you will notice that the shape of the island suggests a ship and during the centuries, blocks of travertine were used in the prow and stern to accentuate this figure. A tall obelisk (later removed) was erected in the center to suggest a mast, while the two bridges suggested moorings.

The southern part of the island is occupied by the church of San Bartolomeo, which dates from the tenth century. The tower is from the twelfth, while the façade is of the Baroque style.

In the summer, there is a lot of activity on the island, including art shows, an open-air cinema and book stalls. 

Ancient Bridges

Two bridges connect the island: Ponte Fabricio and Ponte Cestio. Ponte Fabricio, which dates from 62 BC, is the oldest completely original bridge still intact and operational. It is only open to foot traffic however. Ponte Cestio, on the right bank of the river, was thought to have been built in 46 BC but was completely reconstructed in 1892.

 

Looking down from the banks or from Ponte Palatino on the side toward the island, you can see, parallel to Ponte Palatino, the remains of the ancient Ponte Rotto (broken bridge) from 142 BC.  As the name suggests, only a part of this bridge, the first bridge built using stone arches, remains. It was originally called Ponte Emilio and above it, the aqueduct for Acqua Claudia probably passed, bringing drinking water to the Trastevere neighborhood.

 In Roman times, Trastevere was connected to the rest of the city by way of numerous bridges, almost like today. Moving from south to north: Ponte Sublicio; Ponte Emilio, now the ruined Ponte Rotto; the two bridges that give access to Isola Tiberina, Ponte Fabricio and Cestio; Ponte Agrippa which spanned where Ponte Sisto is now; and finally Ponte Probo, now gone. Further north is Ponte Milvio, site of a famous battle of Emperor Constantine, which we will write about later. 

 

Rome: the Floods of the Tiber

 As we walk Rome, today we will visit in the area of the Pantheon in the center of Rome. After walking around to the back of that immense building, the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva appears. On the wall of the façade of the church, there are several plaques with wording and curious designs.

The original settlement was formed on the banks of the Tiber at the easiest way to cross, near the current Isola Tiberina. Rome grew in size and strength, early on, through trade, as the curve of the river provided an ideal place for landing ships. But even in ancient times, the river was subject to frequent flooding, and the Romans had to undertake major works to raise the level of the ground and drain the water in order to construct the early Forum.

Through the years, the Tiber continued to flood. According to legend, in 1598, the swollen river flooded such a great part of the city that inside the Pantheon the water was 18 feet high, and when at last it retreated, a boat was found abandoned on a small hill. Afterwards, in that area, a fountain in the shape of a boat was built, in what later became one of the most famous squares of the Eternal City.

Lines extending from fingers indicate Tiber flood levels.

On the façade of the church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva, on the right side of the entrance, are several plaques. Wording in Latin is accompanied by drawings of a hand, where the index finger points to indicate the level of the Tiber recorded during floods over the years. The last major flood was in 1870, after which the fledgling Italian nation enclosed the river in its embankments.  Imagine how deep the water must have been in the nearby Pantheon!

A translation of the wording in Latin below the figure:

« UP TO HERE GREW THE TIBER
AND ROME WOULD HAVE ALREADY BEEN
COMPLETELY FLOODED, HAD THE VIRGIN
NOT PERFORMED HERE HER SWIFT ACTION »

There were plaques at many spots all over the city recording the water level after floods, but the best place to see them is right here, where several survive. On the same wall, the last major flood in 1870 was recorded.

This is the last post on this wall. The plaque at the top reads “Alluvione del Decem. 1870,” that is, “Flood of December 1870.” The walls to contain the river were begun soon after. Buildings and the two river ports were razed to allow the construction of the walls, which are about 39 feet tall and protect both sides of the river. Since then, Rome has suffered only three floods, the last one occurring in 1937.

All Roads Lead to Rome

When you visit Rome, you will undoubtedly go to see the Roman Forum. This area has been built over many centuries, from the earliest republic through the glorious years of the empire. The first paving of a large piazza dates from around 600 BC. It was the fulcrum of economic, political and religious activity. Many temples and public places, ever larger and more functional, adorned with numerous statues, were gradually erected in the Forum, reaching its apex in the late imperial period. During the regal period (VIII-VI centuries BC) and part of the republican period (VI – I centuries BC), the buildings were often made of wood and bricks. Later they were enlarged, made more spectacular and composed mostly of marble, a material capable of defying the ravages of time.  

In the Roman Forum, near the enormous arch of Septimius Severus is the Milliarium Aureum (Golden Milepost), (in Italian Miglio Aureo), built by Augustus in 20 AD. This was a column, covered in gilded bronze, from which all distance measurements were made for the vast road system, which spread out all over the empire for more than 50,000 miles. On the column were indicated the distances to major cities. From here, we can appreciate where the expression “all roads lead to Rome” came from.

The vast road system goes back to the republican era (second and third century BC).  Especially the consular roads like Appia, Cassia, Aurelia, and Flaminia that led to the distant provinces, constituted a level of complexity only reached again by twentieth century highways. These ancient Roman roads were planned in a straight line, so they required enormous collateral projects. Swamps had to be drained, bridges raised to span valleys, and huge amounts of rock and dirt had to be removed. The modern road and railway systems in many countries have been superimposed over the strong foundations of the ancient Roman road network.

Walking in Rome

I was born and raised in Rome, Italy. After marrying an American, we settled in Rome for several years, but later moved to the US. I thought I knew Rome pretty well, but as I came back from the US on visits, and walked around as a tourist, I discovered so many fascinating aspects, besides the major monuments. Walking as a tourist in my own city led to the idea to write a book, Walk Rome (available  on iTunes).

We researched by walking its streets, visiting the museums, monuments and other attractions, recording our observations in order to provide a tourist an in-depth, in-context understanding of the ancient and modern surroundings. In fact, there are many interesting things to see as you walk from one major attraction to the next. This blog will show some of the lesser known, intriguing, charming and curious sights of the Eternal City. Come along as we explore Rome a little at a time. Historical, artistic and amusing facts will abound.