Walk Rome

Isola Tiberina

  Rome is situated in the fertile western part of the Latium valley, 15 miles from the sea where the Tiber snakes in a big bend. Here in ancient times, the curve provided an ideal place for landing ships. The area near the Isola Tiberina was also the first practical place to cross the Tiber River. In fact, Romulus, according to legend, founded Rome not far from here on the Palatine hill, where you can still see the remains of 3000 year old huts and of the imperial palaces. It seems probable that near here, on the slopes of the Capitoline, Palatine or Aventine hills, the first inhabitants decided to settle. There is archeological evidence of human occupation from at least the tenth century BC These hills had the advantage of a favorable strategic position. From their heights, it was easy to control the surrounding area and were easily defensible in case of attack. At the bend where Isola Tiberina lies was the easiest place to ford the river.

Contrary to what may be expected, Isola Tiberina is not a natural island. It did not exist in antiquity and there is evidence that it was formed originally by the accumulation of ballast from ships anchored at the nearby port. Later, just below the level of the water of the river, solid rock has been found on which Isola Tiberina was built.

The island has been associated with healing and religion from the earliest times. Here in the third century a temple in honor of Aesculapius, the god of medicine was erected. On the same site, the church of San Bartolomeo was later built. Since 1538 the northern section was the site of the hospital Fatebenefratelli (do-good-brothers), still operating today. If you observe it carefully you will notice that the shape of the island suggests a ship and during the centuries, blocks of travertine were used in the prow and stern to accentuate this figure. A tall obelisk (later removed) was erected in the center to suggest a mast, while the two bridges suggested moorings.

The southern part of the island is occupied by the church of San Bartolomeo, which dates from the tenth century. The tower is from the twelfth, while the façade is of the Baroque style.

In the summer, there is a lot of activity on the island, including art shows, an open-air cinema and book stalls. 

Ancient Bridges

Two bridges connect the island: Ponte Fabricio and Ponte Cestio. Ponte Fabricio, which dates from 62 BC, is the oldest completely original bridge still intact and operational. It is only open to foot traffic however. Ponte Cestio, on the right bank of the river, was thought to have been built in 46 BC but was completely reconstructed in 1892.

 

Looking down from the banks or from Ponte Palatino on the side toward the island, you can see, parallel to Ponte Palatino, the remains of the ancient Ponte Rotto (broken bridge) from 142 BC.  As the name suggests, only a part of this bridge, the first bridge built using stone arches, remains. It was originally called Ponte Emilio and above it, the aqueduct for Acqua Claudia probably passed, bringing drinking water to the Trastevere neighborhood.

 In Roman times, Trastevere was connected to the rest of the city by way of numerous bridges, almost like today. Moving from south to north: Ponte Sublicio; Ponte Emilio, now the ruined Ponte Rotto; the two bridges that give access to Isola Tiberina, Ponte Fabricio and Cestio; Ponte Agrippa which spanned where Ponte Sisto is now; and finally Ponte Probo, now gone. Further north is Ponte Milvio, site of a famous battle of Emperor Constantine, which we will write about later.