The Variety of Lasagne through History

Baked layered goodness

After pizza, lasagne is probably the food most associated with Italy.  It is prepared and enjoyed around the world and full of regional variations. But the origins of lasagne go back beyond even Roman times. (Note – “lasagna”, in the singular, is a southern Italian variation of what northern Italians call “lasagne”, in the plural. Americans have mostly adopted the spelling lasagna in cookbooks and menus.)

A delicious cheesy lasagne right from the oven

The concept of lasagne can be traced back to ancient culinary traditions: in Ancient Greece, there was a dish known as laganon, made from flat, unleavened bread dough sliced into strips. While this wasn’t lasagne in the modern sense, it introduced the fundamental idea of layering ingredients. In Greek culture, laganon simply meant layers of pasta and sauce, though it referred more to the method of preparation rather than the ingredients. The millennia-old history of lasagne is also supported by archaeological evidence: remarkable 4th century BC Etruscan frescoes in the Tomba dei Rilievi near Rome depict the basic tools and ingredients for pasta-making and banquets where a version of lasagne was enjoyed.

When this concept reached the Romans, they adapted it into lasanum, but initially this word described not the food itself, but the cooking pot in which it was prepared; then, over time, the name of the dish gradually began to be associated with the food prepared in the lasanum rather than just the pot itself. The Roman version of lasagne was akin to a baked casserole, incorporating their culinary preferences and ingredients, and it was more about a hearty, oven-baked meal, rather than the pasta-based dish we are familiar with today. While lasanum did lay the groundwork for the layered concept of lasagne, it was still quite different from our modern dish, as it lacked key ingredients like tomatoes, which were introduced to Europe only after the discovery of the Americas. 

A lasagne similar to the early version, without tomato

During the Middle Ages, lasagne began to take a form closer to what we recognize today. One of the earliest documented recipes resembling their modern incarnation is found in the 14th-century Neapolitan cookbook, Liber de Coquina (The Book of Cooking), which is an incredible source for medieval culinary practices and the gastronomic preferences of that era. Its lasagne recipe marks a departure from the Roman-style casserole dish, moving towards a layered structure more familiar to us, because it involved layering sheets of dough, akin to pasta, with cheese and spices. However, it’s important to note that this medieval lasagne was still distinct from the version we enjoy today. A key difference was, still, the absence of tomatoes. Plus, the ingredients used in medieval lasagne were a reflection of the diverse culinary influences in Italy at the time: for instance, the use of raisins and spices was likely inspired by trade with the Middle East and North Africa. These ingredients provided a sweet and spicy flavor profile, quite different from the savory taste of contemporary lasagne.

Over time, as culinary practices evolved and new ingredients became available, lasagne continued to develop and, of course, the introduction of tomatoes to Italian cuisine was a game-changer, leading to the creation of the tomato-based sauces that are integral to modern lasagne.

Lasagne alla bolognese

Variations

The regional variations within Italy contributed to the diversification of lasagne recipes, with different areas developing their unique takes on the dish. In Emilia-Romagna, particularly in Bologna, we find the internationally renowned lasagne alla bolognese: this version is quintessentially Italian, featuring flat, broad sheets of pasta layered with a rich Bolognese sauce, known as ragù. This slow-cooked meat sauce, which usually limits or omits the use of tomatoes in favor of a meat-centric flavor, is harmoniously blended with creamy béchamel sauce and topped with a generous sprinkling of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. The region’s abundant agricultural produce and renowned dairy products explain the use of these rich ingredients, creating a lasagne that is both hearty and refined. Moving south to Campania, the lasagne alla napoletana offers a more elaborate and festive take on the dish. Here, the layers of pasta are intermingled with local sausages, small meatballs, ricotta cheese, hard-boiled eggs, and Neapolitan ragù, which is rich in tomatoes and echoes the region’s own love affair with this fruit as well as its hearty culinary traditions. Usually prepared for Carnevale, the festive season before Lent, this version is a celebration of abundance and truly captures the exuberant spirit of Naples.

Lasagne al pesto with pine nuts

In the coastal region of Liguria, lasagne al pesto presents a delightful change: in place of meat sauces, this variant is characterized by layers of pasta coated in a fresh, aromatic pesto, which is made from the region’s famed basil, along with pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino cheese, garlic, and olive oil. Occasionally, potatoes and green beans are added, bringing a fresh but filling dimension to a lasagna that is lighter than its meat-based cousins, but showcases the fresh flavors of the Mediterranean to the full.

On the island of Sardinia, lasagne ai carciofi reflects the island’s rugged terrain and pastoral traditions: artichokes, a staple in Sardinian cuisine, take center stage in this variant, often accompanied by pecorino cheese and sometimes local sausages or lamb. The artichokes lend a unique, slightly sweet, and nutty flavor to the lasagne, creating a dish that is both comforting and distinctively Sardinian. Finally, in Sicily, the lasagne al forno incorporates ingredients like eggplants, ricotta, hard-boiled eggs, and sometimes a sweet, spiced minced meat filling. This version speaks to the island’s complex history and diverse culinary influences, including Arabic, while the inclusion of eggplants and ricotta is typical of Sicilian cuisine.

 

Vegetarian lasagne

Modern variations include making lasagna as a vegetarian dish, layering a variety of vegetables, besciamella and cheese, with or without tomato, but no meat. It can even be modified to create a vegan version.

Lasagne’s history reaches back to ancient times, and like a culinary chameleon, it’s been reinventing itself every few centuries. From its early days in Greece and Rome to its medieval version, lasagne has proved popular, even before pizza ever tossed its first dough. Today’s version is versatile and adaptable and holds a premium spot on our tables.